Why We Said “No” to Coal Tar

In 2004, a simple question changed everything.

“Why are we using industrial byproducts to color our lashes?”

It was not a marketing question. It was a scientific one. When Susie Wang began examining the ingredient lists of common mascaras and eyeliners, she discovered that many of the deep blacks and bold colors in eye makeup came from coal tar–derived dyes—pigments originally produced during the industrial processing of coal.

For decades, these dyes had quietly become the beauty industry’s default solution for color intensity. They were cheap, stable, and powerful. Most brands accepted them without hesitation.

But the question lingered: Why should something created as industrial residue be used daily around one of the most delicate areas of the human body?

That moment sparked a process of chemical vigilance that ultimately defined the philosophy of 100% PURE. The goal was not simply to produce “natural” makeup. It was to engineer a scientifically credible alternative that could match or exceed the performance of conventional cosmetics while eliminating unnecessary toxic risks.

This pursuit led to one of the brand’s most defining innovations: Fruit Pigmented® cosmetics—color derived from nature rather than industrial byproducts.

More than two decades later, that same refusal to accept the status quo continues to guide how 100% PURE formulates makeup today.

The Hidden Risk of Industrial Dyes

Understanding Coal Tar in Cosmetics

Coal tar is a thick, dark substance created during the conversion of coal into coke and gas. Within this complex mixture are hundreds of chemical compounds that can be refined into dyes. These dyes eventually became the foundation of many synthetic cosmetic colorants.

In ingredient lists, these pigments often appear as FD&C or D&C dyes. They are widely used because they produce strong, consistent color while remaining inexpensive to manufacture.

But coal tar dyes come with a complicated origin story.

Because they are derived from industrial processes, they may carry trace contaminants—including heavy metals—depending on how thoroughly they are purified. While regulatory bodies allow certain levels of these contaminants, the presence of such substances raises concerns for products applied daily near the eyes.

The eye area is uniquely vulnerable. The skin surrounding the eyes is significantly thinner than the rest of the face, making it more permeable and more prone to irritation. Repeated exposure to certain synthetic dyes can contribute to redness, sensitivity, or discomfort in individuals with reactive skin.

For people seeking safe eye makeup or non toxic mascara, understanding where pigments come from becomes essential.

At 100% PURE, this awareness led to a different standard for ingredient selection.

Industry Standard vs. Our Definition of Purity

Coal tar dyes remain widely used in the cosmetics industry because they are efficient. They provide deep color saturation with minimal formulation challenges.

However, efficiency was never the primary objective for 100% PURE.

Purity means examining the full lifecycle of an ingredient—from its origin to its final application. It means asking whether that ingredient aligns with a philosophy centered on safety, transparency, and respect for the skin.

When viewed through that lens, the use of coal tar pigments raised too many questions.

Instead of accepting the industry standard, the brand pursued a more difficult path: developing an entirely new color technology capable of delivering high performance without relying on industrial dyes.

The Fruit Pigmented® Invention and Evolution

A Radical Discovery

In the early 2000s, the founders of 100% PURE began experimenting with deeply colored plants and foods as potential pigment sources.

Berries, pomegranates, cocoa, and black tea contain naturally occurring color compounds such as anthocyanins and polyphenols. These pigments are responsible for the vibrant hues found in fruits and flowers.

If these natural pigments could stain fabrics and skin, the team wondered, could they also be used to create cosmetic color?

Through careful experimentation, the answer became yes.

The process required extracting pigments from plant materials and stabilizing them within cosmetic formulas so they could remain vibrant over time. This innovation eventually became known as Fruit Pigmented® technology—a groundbreaking alternative to conventional dye systems.

Instead of relying on synthetic industrial pigments, makeup could now draw color from nature itself.

This innovation allowed 100% PURE to produce vibrant cosmetics while avoiding the risks associated with coal tar in cosmetics.

The Next Generation of Clean Color

While fruit pigments represented a major breakthrough, cosmetic science continued evolving. The challenge of maintaining intense color payoff and long-term stability required further innovation.

Today, 100% PURE uses a hybrid pigment system that combines botanical pigments with lab-refined minerals.

These minerals are carefully purified at Purity Park, the brand’s research and formulation facility. Through controlled refinement processes, impurities and heavy metal contaminants are removed, ensuring the minerals meet extremely high safety standards.

This approach allows the brand to achieve the bold color payoff expected from professional makeup while maintaining the purity principles that inspired the original Fruit Pigmented® technology.

It is not a departure from the brand’s roots—it is an evolution.

By pairing plant-based pigments with purified minerals, 100% PURE continues delivering what the founders envisioned: vibrant beauty that does not compromise skin health.

A Strong Canvas for Vibrant Color

Beautiful makeup begins with healthy skin.

Even the most advanced pigments cannot perform well on a compromised skin barrier. When the skin is dehydrated, inflamed, or textured, makeup may appear uneven, dull, or prone to settling into fine lines.

This is why preparing the skin properly is essential for achieving smooth, long-lasting color payoff.

The Sensitive-Skin Strength Ritual supports the skin’s barrier so that makeup sits on a healthy, resilient surface.

Gentle Cleansing for a Calm Base

A calm complexion begins with cleansing.

The Calendula Flower Cleansing Milk removes impurities while preserving the skin’s natural lipid barrier. Calendula is widely respected for its soothing properties and its ability to calm reactive skin.

By gently dissolving environmental buildup and excess oil, this cleanser prepares the skin for both skincare and makeup application without triggering dryness or irritation.

Refining Texture for Even Pigment Application

Smooth skin allows pigments to distribute evenly across the surface.

The Matcha Oat Face Scrub provides gentle exfoliation, helping remove accumulated dead skin cells that can disrupt makeup application. Matcha offers antioxidant protection, while oat ingredients calm the skin and reduce visible redness.

For deeper nourishment, the Matcha Oat Milk Nourishing Mask combines soothing oat milk with skin-calming botanicals. This mask replenishes moisture while refining texture, creating an ideal surface for makeup.

Hydration That Supports Makeup Longevity

Hydrated skin supports better makeup performance.

The Intensive Nourishing Facial Oil replenishes essential lipids that strengthen the skin barrier, preventing dehydration throughout the day. Oils rich in essential fatty acids help maintain elasticity and reduce rough texture.

Following with the Seaberry Moisturizer provides lasting hydration. Sea buckthorn, known for its high concentration of vitamins and antioxidants, helps support skin resilience while maintaining softness and suppleness.

When the skin barrier is supported with hydration and nourishment, makeup pigments sit smoothly on the surface rather than settling into dry areas.

The result is a luminous canvas that enhances the performance of color cosmetics.

Conclusion

Saying “no” to coal tar was not the easiest path.

It required years of experimentation, innovation, and persistence. But it established a principle that continues to guide 100% PURE more than twenty years later.

The brand was built on the belief that beauty products should not rely on industrial shortcuts—especially when safer, more thoughtful alternatives can be engineered.

From the invention of Fruit Pigmented® technology to the modern refinement of mineral pigments, the mission remains the same: create vibrant cosmetics without compromising health.

Every formula reflects that original moment of curiosity.

When Susie Wang asked why industrial byproducts were coloring our lashes, the answer became clear: they didn’t have to be.

Today, the commitment to safety remains the spine of the brand.

Because true beauty innovation is not just about color payoff. It is about protecting the skin that color touches.

FAQ

What exactly is coal tar and why is it used in makeup?

Coal tar is a byproduct produced during coal processing. Certain compounds within coal tar can be refined into strong synthetic dyes used in cosmetics. These dyes became popular because they provide intense color at a low cost. However, concerns about potential contaminants and irritation have encouraged some brands to develop alternative pigment technologies.

How do fruit pigments stay stable in cosmetics?

Fruit pigments contain natural color compounds that can degrade if not properly stabilized. At 100% PURE, these pigments are carefully processed and combined with purified minerals to ensure long-lasting color stability while maintaining strict purity standards.

Is lab-refined mineral makeup better for sensitive eyes?

Lab-refined minerals undergo purification processes designed to remove heavy metal contaminants and other impurities. This additional screening helps create pigments that are more suitable for sensitive skin compared to conventional industrial mineral sources.